Smeaton’s Tower Sunrise: A Six-Year Wait for a Glimpse of Plymouth Gold
If there were ever a civic referendum to determine the undisputed heavyweight champion of Plymouth icons, Smeaton’s Tower would win by a landslide, probably while looking remarkably dignified in its red-and-white stripes. It is a structure so stubbornly charismatic that even the Beatles, a group not exactly known for being wallflowers, once posed nearby, though they kept a respectful distance, presumably sensing that the lighthouse might effortlessly outshine them
If there were ever a civic referendum to determine the undisputed heavyweight champion of Plymouth icons, Smeaton’s Tower would win by a landslide, probably while looking remarkably dignified in its red-and-white stripes. It is a structure so stubbornly charismatic that even the Beatles, a group not exactly known for being wallflowers, once posed nearby, though they kept a respectful distance, presumably sensing that the lighthouse might effortlessly outshine them.
It is, quite simply, a magnet for anyone with a camera and a spare afternoon. I am, I should confess, no exception to this rule. However, upon auditing my own photographic archives, I was hit by the mildly horrifying realization that it has been a full six years since I last dragged myself out of bed to capture her at sunrise.
In an attempt to rectify this appalling lapse in judgment, I have spent the better part of the winter peering through rain-streaked windows, waiting for a break in the relentless Devon deluge. And then came Tuesday, the 17th of February. It was a day that really ought to be registered with some minor government department, for between the hours of 6:00 AM and lunchtime, we were treated to a phenomenon known in more tropical climes as "actual sunshine." It didn’t linger, of course, this is England, after all, but while it lasted, it was nothing short of a miracle.
I spent the pre-dawn hours in a state of terminal giddiness. I was up, dressed, and vibrating with anticipation long before the first smudge of light appeared on the horizon. There is a specific, quiet magic to watching the world stir. No matter how many creaks my joints develop, at the current rate of decay, my knees should be expecting a congratulatory telegram from the King any day now, I still possess the wide-eyed thrill of a child who has managed to sneak downstairs early on Christmas morning.
To see the sun finally make a guest appearance after weeks of grey misery was better, frankly, than finding Santa’s muddy boot prints on the hearth. It was a glorious, fleeting reminder that the world is, occasionally, a very fine place to look at.
The Amateur Ark-Builder’s Guide to Wembury Beach (Before the Rain Returns)
Given that the British climate treats a sunny interval with the same fleeting commitment a toddler gives to a broccoli floret, a dash to Dartmoor felt recklessly optimistic. Instead, we zipped along in our small car through a countryside that was less "rolling hills" and more "saturated sponge," bound for the nearest patch of coastline at Wembury. I have, it must be said, photographed Wembury Beach approximately four thousand times, but one does not turn one's nose up at actual, verifiable sunshine. After all, in this part of the world, there is every chance we won’t see it again until the next millennium.
If you happen to inhabit this particular fold of the English landscape, a region so relentlessly lumpy it’s a wonder the sheep don’t all have one leg shorter than the others, it will not have escaped your attention that the weather of late has been, to put it mildly, biblical.
In fact, I am reasonably certain that since the turn of the year, the most frequently consulted entry on the internet has not been "how to lose ten pounds" or "easy sourdough," but rather "construction techniques for the amateur ark-builder." I have taken the role to heart, sprouting a beard of such patriarchal proportions that I’m often mistaken for a lost member of a Victorian climbing expedition. Mrs. C, while steadfastly vetoing my requests to adopt the robe-and-sandals look in public, has at least shown a surprising, if slightly alarming, openness to the idea of filling the spare room with two of every living creature.
So imagine our delight when, roughly halfway through another afternoon spent staring morosely at the rain as it sluiced down the windowpane in great, rhythmic sheets, a genuine miracle occurred.
The clouds, seemingly having grown bored of drowning us, shook hands and went their separate ways. In their wake, they left a sky of such startling, improbable blue that it felt almost like a provocation. In the centre of it all sat a fiery orb of such intense brightness that I vaguely recalled seeing something similar on an episode of Teletubbies back in the early 2000’s.
This was not an opportunity to be squandered on household chores or finishing the Ark (which joined the long, dusty ranks of my other abandoned DIY projects). I swapped my theoretical sandals for actual boots, lunged for my camera bag, and bolted for the door.
Given that the British climate treats a sunny interval with the same fleeting commitment a toddler gives to a broccoli floret, a dash to Dartmoor felt recklessly optimistic. Instead, we zipped along in our small car through a countryside that was less "rolling hills" and more "saturated sponge," bound for the nearest patch of coastline at Wembury. I have, it must be said, photographed Wembury Beach approximately four thousand times, but one does not turn one's nose up at actual, verifiable sunshine. After all, in this part of the world, there is every chance we won’t see it again until the next millennium.
The Wondrous Burden of the Dartmoor Enthusiast
Now, here is where the story takes a turn toward the utterly unbelievable. My droning and the accompanying cavalcade of rocks apparently served as a siren song, a peculiar, moorland-scented siren song, to Brian and Sue, who promptly decided to haul themselves all the way from the reliably sunny (or so I imagine) flatlands of Norfolk to our gloriously lumpy corner of the globe.
One of the great mysteries of my unremarkable existence, and truly, I mean great in the sense of 'perplexing' rather than 'splendid', is the remarkable ease with which I manage to convince otherwise sensible individuals to listen to me go on, and on, about Dartmoor Photography. I am, to put it mildly, a menace to camera clubs far and wide. Picture it: hapless souls, tucked away in village halls up and down the country, forced to sit through what must be an Olympic level parade of Tors. More images of granite outcrops than any sane person could possibly require. And yet, for reasons that frankly baffle both me and probably the professional psychiatric community, they endure my over enthusiastic musings.
Now, here is where the story takes a turn toward the utterly unbelievable. My droning and the accompanying cavalcade of rocks apparently served as a siren song, a peculiar, moorland-scented siren song, to Brian and Sue, who promptly decided to haul themselves all the way from the reliably sunny (or so I imagine) flatlands of Norfolk to our gloriously lumpy corner of the globe.
The pressure, as you can imagine, was palpable. I was the hype-man, the enthusiastic amateur, and now I had two highly skilled photographers looking to me for inspiration. A quick snap of the high street, the obligatory local Co-op, perhaps, was simply not going to cut the mustard. The usual guaranteed winner, Brentor Church at sunrise, was a non-starter; late October dawns tend to be a sort of monochromatic grey that would make a tax auditor look cheerful.
A frantic rummage through the mental archive, then, and a new plan was hatched: Shaugh Prior. A place so ridiculously saturated with colour and interest that the local tourist board really ought to be cutting it a hefty commission. I’d struck gold. It turned out Brian was the sort of man who liked to get right down into the earthy muck of things, finding particular joy in the fungal riots that seemed to spawn from every mossy log. Sue, meanwhile, took a wider, more expansive view, quietly soaking up the genuinely riotous palette Mother Nature had splashed along the riverbank.
We wandered for what felt like a mere handful of minutes, it was, in point of fact, a good couple of hours and by the end, I had two very happy 'snappers.' Memory cards bulging with scenes of genuine beauty, it was time to hand Dartmoor's newest converts back over to the national infrastructure. The pressure was off. The granite had performed its magic.
I must say, after all that, I felt I’d earned my stripes. Perhaps I should just send the National Park my CV. After all, if I can lure people away from Norfolk, what can't I do?
A Fool's Guide to Photography
I won’t lie, there's a small, resentful part of me that always hopes the whole thing will be a bust. That the sky will simply turn to a dull, uninspired grey, just so I can feel smugly justified in my lack of effort. But alas, on this particular evening, my cynicism was thoroughly misplaced. The sky erupted into a riot of crimson and gold, a spectacle so breathtaking it almost made me forget my own grumbling nature. I just stood there, watching the hues deepen, and I couldn't help but wonder if somewhere down in Australia or New Zealand, a fellow shutterbug was cursing their alarm clock for not having woken them up sooner.
If there is a more futile undertaking than attempting to engage me in conversation around 6:30 in the evening, I have yet to find it. You might as well try to convince a cat to fetch your slippers or get a straight answer out of a politician. "Why?" you ask, with the innocent enthusiasm of a person who has never been left staring at a blank wall while the sky explodes into colour.
Well, it's at this precise moment that the sun, a theatrical diva of the highest order, is getting ready to bid a flamboyant farewell to our corner of the globe and stir our southern hemisphere friends from their slumber. It’s a delicate, protracted business, and one that requires my full, undivided attention. My brain, already a chaotic jumble of half forgotten to do lists and the collected works of whoever writes the blurbs on social media, simply cannot process additional information. My wife, a saintly woman, can attest to this phenomenon, having spent many an evening talking to what amounts to a flesh and blood scarecrow with a preoccupied gaze.
This celestial prima donna, the sun, has, in the past, been a cruel mistress. I’ve traipsed across Dartmoor tors, boots caked in mud and a tripod digging into my shoulder, only for her to pull a sudden vanishing act, leaving me with nothing but a grey sky and the distinct feeling of being jilted at the altar. So, I’ve learned my lesson. Tonight I headed to a convenient, an easily accessible spot one that requires no more effort than a short stroll from the car and set up my tripod, ready for the show.
And I won’t lie, there's a small, resentful part of me that always hopes the whole thing will be a bust. That the sky will simply turn to a dull, uninspired grey, just so I can feel smugly justified in my lack of effort. But alas, on this particular evening, my cynicism was thoroughly misplaced. The sky erupted into a riot of crimson and gold, a spectacle so breathtaking it almost made me forget my own grumbling nature. I just stood there, watching the hues deepen, and I couldn't help but wonder if somewhere down in Australia or New Zealand, a fellow shutterbug was cursing their alarm clock for not having woken them up sooner.
A scenic long exposure photograph of the Plymouth Hoe waterfront at sunset. The sky is a gradient of soft pinks, oranges, and purples. In the middle ground, the iconic red and white striped Smeaton's Tower lighthouse stands out against the landscape. To the left, a cluster of buildings, including the dome of the former Dome restaurant, is visible. To the right, the column of the Royal Citadel is silhouetted against the sky. The foreground shows the calm, reflective waters of Plymouth Sound. The city lights are just beginning to glow, creating a gentle illumination along the shoreline.
Sharp Tor, Dartmeet: Battling Parking Meters for Dartmoor's Golden Hour (Photography Adventure)
My quarry this morning? Sharp Tor, Dartmeet, on the eastern flank of Dartmoor. Now, these Tor chaps, they really lacked imagination, didn’t they? Sharp Tor? There are a few, apparently, leading to a rather spirited debate with my sat-nav, which, bless its digital heart, seemed convinced we were headed north, not east. I, of course, had done my homework, like a particularly keen, if slightly over-caffeinated, schoolboy. Yartor Down car park, shortest walk, I’d read. Shortest, yes. But they rather glossed over the bit where you plummet into a valley so steep, even a Sherpa would raise an eyebrow and say, “You’re having a laugh, mate.”
Well, now, it appears the weather chaps, those capricious deities with their finger on the thermostat, have decided to, what’s the phrase? “Give summer a whirl.” A quickie, mind you, like a pop-up shop, presumably a dastardly scheme to usher in the drizzle with renewed vigour. But, being no fool, or at least, trying not to be, I’m embracing it. Like accepting a slightly suspicious gift from a distant relative, you just smile and nod. So, there I was, creeping out of the house in the inky blackness, a veritable photographic ninja, if ninjas wore slightly rumpled trousers and muttered about forgetting their lens cap.
My quarry this morning? Sharp Tor, Dartmeet, on the eastern flank of Dartmoor. Now, these Tor chaps, they really lacked imagination, didn’t they? Sharp Tor? There are a few, apparently, leading to a rather spirited debate with my sat-nav, which, bless its digital heart, seemed convinced we were headed north, not east. I, of course, had done my homework, like a particularly keen, if slightly over-caffeinated, schoolboy. Yartor Down car park, shortest walk, I’d read. Shortest, yes. But they rather glossed over the bit where you plummet into a valley so steep, even a Sherpa would raise an eyebrow and say, “You’re having a laugh, mate.”
Plan B, naturally, was required. A frantic dash down the road, and there it was, glaring at me like a disapproving headmaster: a Dartmoor National Park parking meter. I tell you, I pondered the economics. Would it be cheaper to pay the ransom, or simply get my knees replaced after that valley climb? The dawn, however, that lovely, warm, glowing thing, made the decision. I huffed and puffed, like a steam train with a head cold, and finally, there I was, at the summit.
And, well, it was rather splendid. The light, you see, was just…glorious. Warm tones, dancing across the landscape, colouring those clouds like a particularly enthusiastic toddler with a box of crayons. I dashed about, like a squirrel with a nut, grabbing compositions, determined to get my money’s worth. I’ll probably always grumble about those parking meters, those metal extortionists. But, on balance, I’d have to say, it was worth it. Even if my knees are now threatening to file a formal complaint.
Hound Tor
Ah, Hound Tor. A place of... memories. Mostly bad. You see, a couple of years back, I’d had the bright idea of visiting in the dead of night. And, as is my wont, I managed to drop my phone. In the dark. On Dartmoor. Finding a mobile phone on Dartmoor at 2am is a bit like trying to find a specific grain of sand on a beach in the Sahara. It's not impossible, just deeply, profoundly, annoying. So, naturally, I’ve always held a bit of a grudge against the place. Which, let’s be honest, is a bit like blaming the pavement for your own clumsiness. But still.
Right, so, you know that feeling? When you escape the urban... blare? The relentless, inescapable, thrum? And suddenly, it's just you and the gentle, almost apologetic, crunch of boots on frost? It’s a bit like finding a tenner in an old coat, isn’t it? Pure, unadulterated, yes.
Today, Dartmoor, that vast, windswept, sheep-infested expanse, was promising a spectacle. Or at least, I hoped it was. The sun, bless her heart, was doing her best impression of a startled tomato, turning the horizon a rather alarming shade of crimson. The air, as they say, was crisp. Crisp enough to snap a carrot, you’d think.
Ah, Hound Tor. A place of... memories. Mostly bad. You see, a couple of years back, I’d had the bright idea of visiting in the dead of night. And, as is my wont, I managed to drop my phone. In the dark. On Dartmoor. Finding a mobile phone on Dartmoor at 2am is a bit like trying to find a specific grain of sand on a beach in the Sahara. It's not impossible, just deeply, profoundly, annoying. So, naturally, I’ve always held a bit of a grudge against the place. Which, let’s be honest, is a bit like blaming the pavement for your own clumsiness. But still.
Anyway, armed with the collective wisdom of the internet (which, let’s face it, is a bit like taking medical advice from a parrot), I’d decided I wanted to capture the sunrise from a particular angle. This involved clambering up the side of the Tor, a feat that, it turns out, requires rather more shin than I currently possess. I was, to put it mildly, expressing my displeasure. Loudly. In what might be described as a colourful, if somewhat repetitive, vocabulary. Perhaps this is why they call it the “Blue Hour”? Because of the air turning blue with, shall we say, enthusiastic language?
Having reached my designated spot, I promptly decided I’d made a terrible mistake. The other side, clearly, was where the magic would happen. This necessitated another clamber, resulting in even more scuffed knees and a fresh outpouring of, artistic expression. Eventually, after much fumbling and cursing, I managed to capture something that didn’t look like a blurry smudge.
And then, of course, the retreat. Back down, with less skin than I’d started with, but, crucially, with my phone still safely in my pocket. A small victory, perhaps, but on Dartmoor, small victories are the ones you cling to. Like finding a dry sock at the bottom of a rucksack.